We screw them in with epoxy to give a little extra holding power. I always run a 10-24 tap through them after installing them in the cabinet. They are brass so they do warp a little and often times just aren’t tapped overly well. It makes it so much easier to get the bolts in.
Unfortunately the diameter of the holes changes from batch to batch it seems. That is why we just suggest those screw sizes. They are either .300″ or .325″.
Okay, thanks. I think I will go 10-24 this time even though Parts Express doesn’t sell 10-24 hardware inserts. McMaster-Carr to the rescue! I didn’t have the best experience with 10-32 fasteners last time. It was hard to get the 10-32 socket cap screws to start in some of the hurricane nuts even though all the holes were carefully drilled on a drill press. Hopefully the coarser threads on a 10-24 will help with that problem some.
The supplied gasket offers more of good looks than good function. (My personal view, after being in seals and gaskets business since 30+ years.) Put a drip or two of wood glue in the threads of the hurricane nuts to improve airtightness of your box.
The gasket is not intended to provide a seal, but is a cosmetic addition to cover the outside edge of the surround where it is glued down. We always use a closed cell foam tape behind, typically 1/2″ x 1/4″ thickness. This compresses and makes a good seal.
Well I must be a schlub. I didn’t put any foam gasket tape behind the rubber gasket on my AV15-H sonotubes. They sealed just fine with the rubber gasket against the finished Baltic Birch (5 coats of poly). I also didn’t make any attempt to seal the threads of the fasteners. Who knew I’ve been doing it wrong all this time. 😯
So, how about all the other PR18 related questions John? Since I’ve already paid for and have several of them on order, the most important question to me is what’s the x-max? 30mm or 38.1mm (each way)?
I scrapped the gaskets which came with my TD18’s, really it isn’t very good. You get better sealing ability with common cellular EPDM used around window frames etc. If you scrap the gasket and want to recess the metal basket rim, you get a snug fit by routing Ø 465 mm, 10 mm deep. I used Ø 5 mm screws for wood, if I remember correctly the screw hole diameter is 8 mm. You may get into trouble if you use M8 machine screws though, you have to be very precise when you drill and there will be little extra wood around the screw.
I was planning to keep the rubber gasket. I used them without issue on my AV15-H drivers. I’ll be using English hardware, not metric since I plan to use hurricane nuts from PE.
Generally I try to make the driver’s hole undersized a tad and then use a mild roundover on the “corner” so the driver fits flush but there’s a little extra wood for holding the fasteners.
(Whoever made that drawing must have missed geometry class, 8 evenly divided holes with 60 degrees in between … )
Not that I’m getting answers to my questions here, but i’ve been told via e-mail that the specs on the website are correct and the PR18 is dimensionally the same as the TD18 without the motor on the basket. Which means this drawing is basically applicable.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t have the diameter of the mounting holes in the frame.
Thank you for bringing this to my attention regarding the black cones. I am not sure who originally took or entered the order. I have only one email that was forwareded to me some months ago. I was not aware at all about the request for black cones as it is not noted on the invoice or build sheet. I am very close to having the anodizing line setup here which will allow me to anodize in any color. Everything is here now except the power supplies. The rest of my parts from the same vendor came in yesterday via DHL so I expect the others to be here any day. Mark Seaton is also waiting for black cones so this is of course a priority as well. I spoke to Jason today and will be getting him back in here in the evenings to work on setting up the anodizing line. In the meantime I will get the single one out to you with the clear finish within the next few days. The rest I will get done black as soon as the anodizing is ready to go.
Thanks for the quick reply. For what it’s worth, it’s listed as the first item in the order history when I check the order status online.
“04/23/2010 Pending Please ship drivers with a black cone instead of the standard silver cone.”
I was talking / e-mail with Beth back when I placed the order. Obviously it didn’t get entered in the appropriate locations for you to know about it.
Good luck, mine came in silver, apparently they dont paint cones anymore.
I’m pretty sure they do. Some of AE’s OEM customers get AV derived drivers with black cones as of when they were last made (~9 months ago). I ordered black cones 9 month ago, and if AE can’t deliver black cones… Well, I prefer not to think about that… 👿