fourthmeal

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    fourthmeal on · in reply to: FS – A nice pair of AV10H D2’s #11283

    This is OBO, sorry I forgot to mention that.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7278

    @Hebrew Hammer wrote:

    @fourthmeal wrote:

    That new TD6H is a car door monster right there. Wow, I need to find a car with more depth in the doors and buy it ASAP.

    What would be the right cross point for a 2-way with this unit? I’m thinking 2.8-3.0kHz @ 24dB/oct. would be my guess based of the charts.

    if door mounting then either sail panels or in the corners of the dash firing up.. but I’d go further up in xover point regardless of tweeter used if not on the same baffle as you will get smearing from the harmonics past the fundamental xover point which.. and with a drvier like this… no reason why it couldn’t do 3500-4000 easily…

    Agreed and that’s how I do it (4K on my active setup now), I do follow the principles you are talking about. I was talking about parts closer together, but that’s a maybe. Hell, I don’t even have the vehicle now. In dream/planning mode. 🙂


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7276

    That new TD6H is a car door monster right there. Wow, I need to find a car with more depth in the doors and buy it ASAP.

    What would be the right cross point for a 2-way with this unit? I’m thinking 2.8-3.0kHz @ 24dB/oct. would be my guess based of the charts.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7263

    @simon5 wrote:

    If you don’t plan to use a subwoofer, TD6H will be better down low than TD6M, but you will have to take the lower efficiency into account when you will choose your tweeter.

    In the world of car audio, separate drivers… Active is the name of the game so efficiency isn’t as critical. But getting that front stage to play low might a very good thing as long as the top end is still clean enough to work in a 2 way.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7259

    Would you say the “H” or the “M” will be better suited for a car environment, 2-way?


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7250

    @stryke wrote:

    @fourthmeal wrote:

    This car is not a keeper, I’m saving for an LS400/430 to major work in. So no custom craziness.

    $150 a pop is a lot more than I thought they’d go for!

    Keep in mind just what you are getting here and what drivers they compare to. The PHL1120 was the closest option we found to the TD6M. It was our last attempt at finding a good high efficiency, low distortion midrange driver, but just didn’t match up with the rest of the Lambda Series. The TD6M has nearly 2x the Xmax, 1/10 the inductance, and has no nasty dustcap breakup. You’d need 2 of the PHL to get the same output levels down low.

    The TD6H is my real favorite. Parameters will be up shortly. It has smooth response to 5KHz, efficiency around 90dB 1W, and tiny inductance of about .15mH. They compare to the Scan Speak Illuminator at over $300. The TD6H however has about 6dB more efficiency, 10mm Xmax vs 6mm, and 1/3 the inductance. You see the same with Seas Excel drivers. The other comparable drivers in terms of low distortion are from Audio Technology and ATC at upwards of $400 each. Even those have much higher and less linear inductance. For a 2way or MTM where you want to cross high to a dome or ribbon tweeter there are really no drivers that can compare.

    John

    Woah…now the TD6H sounds like a good deal. Given the xmax it sounds like it could handle car doors a little better. When you can’t port, I always turn to cone area and xmax. Maybe for the Lexus…


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7248

    This car is not a keeper, I’m saving for an LS400/430 to major work in. So no custom craziness.

    $150 a pop is a lot more than I thought they’d go for!

    @Hebrew Hammer wrote:

    @fourthmeal wrote:

    @simon5 wrote:

    Here are the preliminary dimensions, but I doubt they have changed much. Maybe wait to have the drivers physically in your hands before starting the saw.

    Frame diameter : 167 mm
    Cutout diameter : 147 mm
    Mounting depth : Approx 3.5 inches

    Damnit! Exactly the same depth as the Mpyres I had to sell off as well. WAY too deep for an Acura door. I’m out I guess, at least for this vehicle.

    if ever there is a car version made with more qts suitable for IB installs, definitely make them more shallow. I can guarantee a lot of people will buy them, …there are tons of great tweeters but precious few 2-way drivers that can play high enough in a car off-axis, clearly and cleanly.

    If Kirk Profit can fit a pair of Audio Technology 18H’s in his doors, I don’t see a problem with getting these in as well


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7241

    Its an issue between the door skin, and the glass of the door itself. There is less than 3″ total space between those two.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7239

    @simon5 wrote:

    Here are the preliminary dimensions, but I doubt they have changed much. Maybe wait to have the drivers physically in your hands before starting the saw.

    Frame diameter : 167 mm
    Cutout diameter : 147 mm
    Mounting depth : Approx 3.5 inches

    Damnit! Exactly the same depth as the Mpyres I had to sell off as well. WAY too deep for an Acura door. I’m out I guess, at least for this vehicle.

    if ever there is a car version made with more qts suitable for IB installs, definitely make them more shallow. I can guarantee a lot of people will buy them, …there are tons of great tweeters but precious few 2-way drivers that can play high enough in a car off-axis, clearly and cleanly.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: TD6M – the Lambda Series Little Brother #7237

    Hi John,

    I have an order in for an AV15H but I’ve emailed with Beth and found that they are on some sort of delay for parts.

    I would like to order these IF they will fit the doors of my Acura TL and IF you think they will perform adequately in a well deadened/sealed IB door install for car audio use. If you think they will work in that field, I just need to know dimensions (in case I missed where they were shown), so I can then measure my door for fitment. And IF they fit, can I use the money already given for the sub I ordered?


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: Info request order #695 #7182

    Any feedback?


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: Please help with choosing a 12" woofer #7164

    Hey brocken, glad you made it over from DIYMA.

    My vote is the Av12H, in whatever coil config you need.

    http://aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=66

    I’m doing the 15″ version as I mentioned, the H model is the one with flatwound coils, high SPL / SQ capabilities, and good in a small box to boot.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: AV15-H for a car, possibly in black? #7104

    @simon5 wrote:

    If you build a large box (5 cu.ft), 1.25 lbs per cu.ft is a bit too much, but it will work fine, but it’s better to use 1 lb per cu.ft. If it’s more like a smaller box of 2 cu.ft then you could even increase that to 1.5 lbs per cu.ft. Read this article, good one about polyfill : http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/1348/ultimate-polyfill-subwoofer-enclosure-resource

    A few inches of space is enough for the pole vent.

    No real need for chamfering, since the subwoofer basket is well vented, but there’s nothing bad in doing a small chamfer.

    Good luck ! 8)

    Yep that’s the polyfil reference I give all the folks who ask me about what to do. Just didn’t know if there was any other reference since you guys, by design, build subs (which in my mind makes you THE authority.)

    Good to know what I know is all I should know. Haha.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: AV15-H for a car, possibly in black? #7102

    Now that I’ve made my order, and I’ve got the .pdf of the size and specs of this unit, I’m going to attempt to build a box before receiving the sub itself.

    It looks like the sub is extremely tolerant of a wide range of sealed box sizing from what I can tell.

    I’ve managed to model a basic replica of the sub on Google Sketchup to help me design the right size box. The depth is no issue and the width is no issue, but when setting a box at an angle then things get complicated when the sub isn’t there for test-measuring! In designing some box ideas, I planned on using polyfil as I’ve got about 10lbs in a big box, from a prior project of gross overpurchasing. I’ve always followed the rule of 1.25lbs of poly per 1 cubic foot of box, or less depending on tuning goal. Any sage advice beyond this rule of thumb? Also I’m trying to figure out how much space behind the magnet the pole vent requires for safe, optimal performance? Third question, centering around the baffle thickness. I am probably going to use a double-thick baffle (1.5″ total) to mount the heavy sub. Some subs I’ve owned before benefit from “chamfering” the baffle when using thick baffle sizes, perhaps to help venting of the spider or whatnot. Any conceivable advantage to do that with this sub? By visual inspection alone I would say “no”, but I figure I’d let the designer say so.

    Thanks again, I can’t wait to start cutting up some wood for my design.


    Member
    fourthmeal on · in reply to: AV15-H for a car, possibly in black? #7100

    Thank you both, John and Simon.

    I have placed my order for a silver AV15H in dual 2ohm. I am more than excited to use this beast in my SQ build.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)