How do you mount a AV12 correctly???????????

Posted In: Subwoofers 101


  • Member
    gnfanatic on #120

    I know this sounds retarded. But the rubber around the chassis is annoying the hell out of me. If I mount my screws and they are on top of the rubber sorround the rubber crushes in ceertain areas and looks wavey. The head of the screws are to big to go IN the rubber. So what am I doing wrong here?? is the screw heads suppose to go IN the rubber and stay flush??

    thanks
    Ralphg


    Member
    Admin on #2218

    Hi Ralph,

    You use a #8 drywall screw. They go right through the holes in the rubber gasket and hold on the frame.

    Ideally you’ll want to use a square head screw. The have much less chance of slipping. Mcfeelys has “speaker screws” that work very well.

    http://www.mcfeelys.com/multiple.asp?productID=0806-PSK

    John


    Member
    gnfanatic on #2219

    Thanks John, I jsut installed them, I ahd a bunch of 1.25in steel ones, looks good with the metal cone. The rubber still does not sit flat eprfect with them becuase the holes do not line up perfect. I guess I am being to anal. I love the love of the sub. Question for ya. I am running the sub at 1 ohm. I connected BOTH neg terminals together wiht the neg wire from box and both pos together with the pos wire from box, os this right?

    thanks
    Ralph


    Member
    Admin on #2220

    yes, that is the correct way to wire.

    The rubber gasket can be turned so the holes line up. it isn’t glued down or anything, it just slips over the edge. You should also run some foam weather strip tape down before you put the woofer in. The rubber gasket itself doesn’t usually seal good enough.

    John


    Member
    gnfanatic on #2221

    oh christ, I didnt realize I need to use foam as well, I have it to. I thought that rubber was a sealer. the sub is sealed for sure, no leaks at all and I tested it. should I take it out again?? I know the rubber isnt glued to frame, but when it is perfect wiht one hole it is a little offset with others.

    thanks
    Ralph


    Member
    Admin on #2222

    The rubber gasket stretches pretty good. Should be able to align it quite well with all the holes before you fully set the woofer down.

    If it is fully sealed then you should be ok. It’s really hard to tell though without running an impedance curve. Tiny leaks won’t be audible. IT’s up to you if you want to take it back out or not.

    john


    Member
    gnfanatic on #2223

    thanks john, I will try this for now and see how it goes. Have a great Holiday.


    Member
    gnfanatic on #2224

    eh, I took it out and put 1/2 wide speaker gasket I bought at partsexpress., It would have bothered me if I didnt do it 😀


    Member
    dB on #2225

    So how’s the sub sound gn?

    Question – you wouldn’t drive a Grand National GNX or anything like that would you?


    Member
    gnfanatic on #2226

    I dont nkow yet, I am go9ing to order some Zed audio amps. I am only going to be pushing 600 watts to it. Yes, I have a 1986 Buick GN with mucho mods to it, another toy 🙂 I would post a pic but looks like this forum does not allow it, no option.

    see ya
    Ralph


    Member
    Admin on #2227

    The forum itself doesn’t let you post pics. You can go to the Gallery 2 link up on top though and post stuff there.

    John


    Member
    dB on #2228

    Are you going to leave me waiting? Mods Mods Mods!! (There’s an Auto Thread under Off Topic – would love to hear about the GN.)


    Member
    gnfanatic on #2229

    Hey DB, I went in there and I still cant post a pic though?? Or am I over seeing it?

    thanks
    ralph


    Member
    dB on #2230

    You’ll have to upload the photo’s to a server which will hoste them, then use the ‘Img’ button above to show it on the page..


    Member
    R. Buszka on #2231

    I personally say that drywall screws will not be enough to hold an AV12 woofer. What I use is a variation on the old T-Nuts and machine screws trick. The rubber gasket can stretch well for flat-head screws (the ones with the taper under the head/the ones that are designed to be countersunk). I gave up on T-nuts within the first afternoon. I switched to the Hurricane Nuts available from Parts Express, and never looked back. I know a lot of other people like threaded inserts as well, but for me, the Hurricane nuts seem just as strong and easier to implement, and actually seem like a variation on the threaded insert concept as well.

    ### YO!!! ###

    DO NOT CROSS-THREAD THE SCREWS!!

    Always look for the thread in the T-nuts, Hurricane nuts, or threaded inserts. before you start sitting there and applying torque. Otherwise you’ll ruin both the screw and the nut, and probably tear the nut out of the MDF in the process. If you’ll take the time and look for the thread to begin with, you’ll save a lot of expletives that are better applied elsewhere.

    BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR TOOLS!!

    The aluminum cone is very easy to dent and you’ll be screaming at yourself and throwing tools around for hours if you accidentally drop something into the cone. This is a serious risk. Be smart about what you are doing, and keep a good grip on the screwdriver. Or else your shiny new driver will be sporting an awful dent, like mine. I dropped an allen wrench into the center of mine, as you can see in my avatar photo. Be Ye Warned.

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